Sunday, January 12, 2025

 Heading for the Hills of Haiti


Twenty-four years ago, as an anthropologist on the first of what would become many sojourns in the mountains of southeastern Haiti, I was initially shocked —then later — charmed by what I saw, heard, felt and witnessed. Charmed? Yes, “Charmed,” since I felt I’d discovered just that, here in anthropological paradise — this mountain world where, as I described it, “The clock had stopped in 1804.”


So, it was a coup de foudre— the beginnings of a love affair with the traditions, techniques and talents of my neighbors and colleagues. Many came to be friends. Yes, there were grudges, debates, hard feelings. I acquired a modest ability, of necessity, in speaking Haitian Kreyol. Is it perhaps not by understanding, but by misunderstandings that a deeper appreciation of the anthropological Other grows? Accordingly, anthropology as science is necessarily a process. In anthropological circles the term is heterology—“The science of the Other— which begins with the apparent incongruities of the voyaging account, the shocks to our own categories, and common sense.” (Sahlins 1995:118)


Given my training in anthropology, I was drawn to what this rural mountain culture had, not what it lacked. I considered, for a long while, the glass half-full, not half-empty, even as some of the children around me had distended bellies, reddish-tinged hair and hollow eyes… For their sturdy hands, at the end of thin wrists, gripped mine with a strength I couldn’t muster. And so, the malnourished sturdy children helped me up the long, winding switch-back, over rocks and slippery soil to our final destination, Mon Bouton.


For a long while, I held to this notion. Half full.

Sunday, December 29, 2024

Mountains of Haiti. The Why and When of It.



    "Things didn’t turn out the way they were supposed to, but what can you do ? You must take life the way it comes  at you and make the best of it." (From Yann Martel’s Life of Pi) 

    

    Once upon a time when my daughter was still alive, and she was a student at Stanford where I worked -  and where I "wrote" the autobiography of Martin Luther King Jr. among other things... I was a  compiler, of sorts, let's be accurate.

    So perhaps Brother Martin was an inspiration? Listening to all his speeches, putting them in chronological order, and the Prof. Clay Carson edited by efforts...

    Learning from King, the Poor People's Campaig and what was then "the Other America,"  Black, disenfranchised, under-served...

    So...To Haiti!

    We went to Haiti because she had a report to write in high school  about a Caribbean or Latin American country. 

    My daughter was disappointed when a classmate got Cuba. I told her "Why don’t you choose Haiti ? You speak French Haiti speaks French…" 

    Well, Haiti doesn’t speak French at least the masses of people don’t and so….

    After meeting up with a Haitian foundation at Stanford’s Haas center, we made some connections and studied Kreyol at Staford and went to the mountains of rural, Haiti and fell in love. 

    We took teams of Stanford students over the following years to learn from and live with the people -- not to help but to learn from  because "Help" is a four letter word, and you don’t do that- not when your mother is an anthropologist.

    Right.  So, I saw as a mother-daughter anthropologist team,  like Margaret Mead and her daughher Mary Catherine Bateson...(Aunt Maggie had been my mentor from a distance, as an undergrad at University of Hawaii).

    But, it was not to be.

    From Levi-Strauss, my hero so long ago:


    “Like a city-dweller transported to the mountains, I became drunk with space, while my dazzled eyes measured the wealth and varieties of the objects surrounding me. An anthropological Paradise.” 


    Over the years, the past 25 years to be precise, of summers and December vacations, at Project Base,  our home in those hills, I have finally gotten used to the constant comings and goings, interruptions, greetings — it is impolite not to shout some reply, acknowledgement, greeting, from the path or the window. From wherever you stand. 


    In my absence, “Project Base” is lived in, managed by, and its gardens, flowers, hibiscus, planted and maintained by Madam Kawolis. In my absence, she plants black beans which cascade over the patio. Food more than flowers. 


    In my presence, Madam Kawolis. is happy sleeping in the depot, a small separate kabin for storing tools and, well, the stuff that we lot bo dlo (USA) might hoard and forget about in our 2-car garages or basements—oddments of old furniture which could perhaps be used for firewood, but in any case, not to be tossed (where?). Mme. Kawo keeps mayi, corn, in one or another stage of husking or grinding, and banane on their way to or from the “upstairs” (Fort Kampon) or “downstairs” market, in the almost-coastal town of Dabon. 


    Madame Kawolis is a peddler, or rather, a porter; the banane, the mayi is carried in huge baskets on her head. The baskets are woven nearby. I treasure them. Into the baskets goes produce. Madame Kawo carries her goods “upstairs” as I call it — or rather, upmountain — to Kampon market. 


    Down and back to Dabon, “downstairs” as I would say, is 6 hours round trip if you are blan (foreigner, visitor — not a skin shade!) Up and back to Kampon is best before dawn — you actually climb faster before sun up! It’s true. This, I learned. Vivere e imparare.  


    Baskets. One year, I actually fit one in my largest empty suitcase and flew it across the seas, lot bo dlo. It served back in Palo Alto for laundry for many years…My favorite basket.


    Until it, like so much else, had to go. 






Sunday, October 1, 2023

The seeds they sow...

A tribute to Mariejo and to the teams of Stanford students she led and cheered, in the hills of Haiti.
In Memoriam
"May the one whose spirit is with us in every righteous deed, be with all who work for the good of humanity
and bear the burdens of others...
and take the friendless into their homes.

Stanford student team dances the distance

Goats at dawn with kids...yawn...




Mariejo shells beans, ruins manicure, listens to neighbor, Magali.

So this is how it went: we lived with the people, they took us into their homes, they shared their lives.

Take a bath once a week whether you need it or not...

Hike way up to Fort Kampon, 2001


"May the work of their hands endure,
and may the seed they sow bring abundant harvest." (text by Chaim Stern)