Sunday, December 29, 2024

Mountains of Haiti. The Why and When of It.



    "Things didn’t turn out the way they were supposed to, but what can you do ? You must take life the way it comes  at you and make the best of it." (From Yann Martel’s Life of Pi) 

    

    Once upon a time when my daughter was still alive, and she was a student at Stanford where I worked -  and where I "wrote" the autobiography of Martin Luther King Jr. among other things... I was a  compiler, of sorts, let's be accurate.

    So perhaps Brother Martin was an inspiration? Listening to all his speeches, putting them in chronological order, and the Prof. Clay Carson edited by efforts...

    Learning from King, the Poor People's Campaig and what was then "the Other America,"  Black, disenfranchised, under-served...

    So...To Haiti!

    We went to Haiti because she had a report to write in high school  about a Caribbean or Latin American country. 

    My daughter was disappointed when a classmate got Cuba. I told her "Why don’t you choose Haiti ? You speak French Haiti speaks French…" 

    Well, Haiti doesn’t speak French at least the masses of people don’t and so….

    After meeting up with a Haitian foundation at Stanford’s Haas center, we made some connections and studied Kreyol at Staford and went to the mountains of rural, Haiti and fell in love. 

    We took teams of Stanford students over the following years to learn from and live with the people -- not to help but to learn from  because "Help" is a four letter word, and you don’t do that- not when your mother is an anthropologist.

    Right.  So, I saw as a mother-daughter anthropologist team,  like Margaret Mead and her daughher Mary Catherine Bateson...(Aunt Maggie had been my mentor from a distance, as an undergrad at University of Hawaii).

    But, it was not to be.

    From Levi-Strauss, my hero so long ago:


    “Like a city-dweller transported to the mountains, I became drunk with space, while my dazzled eyes measured the wealth and varieties of the objects surrounding me. An anthropological Paradise.” 


    Over the years, the past 25 years to be precise, of summers and December vacations, at Project Base,  our home in those hills, I have finally gotten used to the constant comings and goings, interruptions, greetings — it is impolite not to shout some reply, acknowledgement, greeting, from the path or the window. From wherever you stand. 


    In my absence, “Project Base” is lived in, managed by, and its gardens, flowers, hibiscus, planted and maintained by Madam Kawolis. In my absence, she plants black beans which cascade over the patio. Food more than flowers. 


    In my presence, Madam Kawolis. is happy sleeping in the depot, a small separate kabin for storing tools and, well, the stuff that we lot bo dlo (USA) might hoard and forget about in our 2-car garages or basements—oddments of old furniture which could perhaps be used for firewood, but in any case, not to be tossed (where?). Mme. Kawo keeps mayi, corn, in one or another stage of husking or grinding, and banane on their way to or from the “upstairs” (Fort Kampon) or “downstairs” market, in the almost-coastal town of Dabon. 


    Madame Kawolis is a peddler, or rather, a porter; the banane, the mayi is carried in huge baskets on her head. The baskets are woven nearby. I treasure them. Into the baskets goes produce. Madame Kawo carries her goods “upstairs” as I call it — or rather, upmountain — to Kampon market. 


    Down and back to Dabon, “downstairs” as I would say, is 6 hours round trip if you are blan (foreigner, visitor — not a skin shade!) Up and back to Kampon is best before dawn — you actually climb faster before sun up! It’s true. This, I learned. Vivere e imparare.  


    Baskets. One year, I actually fit one in my largest empty suitcase and flew it across the seas, lot bo dlo. It served back in Palo Alto for laundry for many years…My favorite basket.


    Until it, like so much else, had to go. 






Sunday, October 1, 2023

The seeds they sow...

A tribute to Mariejo and to the teams of Stanford students she led and cheered, in the hills of Haiti.
In Memoriam
"May the one whose spirit is with us in every righteous deed, be with all who work for the good of humanity
and bear the burdens of others...
and take the friendless into their homes.

Stanford student team dances the distance

Goats at dawn with kids...yawn...




Mariejo shells beans, ruins manicure, listens to neighbor, Magali.

So this is how it went: we lived with the people, they took us into their homes, they shared their lives.

Take a bath once a week whether you need it or not...

Hike way up to Fort Kampon, 2001


"May the work of their hands endure,
and may the seed they sow bring abundant harvest." (text by Chaim Stern)

Monday, August 7, 2023

Haiti and Hunger, Why Haiti?

 Why Haiti? Why Hunger? Why Indeed?

What?  Why? Huh? 


After several years trying to find a magic bullet to somehow solve the problems of subsistence farmers in rural Haiti, and trying to understand my own motivations, I came across Alexander McCall Smith's narrator's conclusion.  Mma. Precious Ramotswe, in Morality for Beautiful Girls.   Like Precious, Ramotswe, I felt could not refuse to help persons in need.  


And yes, although Haiti is not (exactly) Africa, it is safe to extrapolate, with Precious R., "Not that you could do everything.  Africa was full of people in need of help and there had to be a limit."  Haiti has 8 million hungry people (not counting city-dwellers, who manage to eat every day). 

So, for myself, in Haiti, I set the limit: just one hillside, just one small mountain, that's all. 



So, it happened to be my mazel (luck) to arrive up in Mon Bouton, some 3500 feet above the plain of Leogane. Because of a cup of coffee. (But that's another story.)


Back to basics. Food. Agriculture? First, let’s give you banana fronds…oh damn, no, let Edwige Danticat give you banana fronds—, banane, thickets of pwa nwa, black bean plants taking over because, of course, you cannot EAT flowers, and if you are Haitian, if you are Madame Kawolis, why, you must  plant every possible square inch with a food crop…


If you are a  blan, a foreigner, like myself, why, in your home country you glory in the green , which is of course everywhere, everywhere, and climbing. Growing.  


Earth. 

Earth rich.

Earth rich and rotten.